The curious past of Chattogram’s coffee cultivation

 

By Haroon Rashid 

January 25, 2024

One might be shocked to hear that Chattogram had multiple coffee gardens in the early 19th century.

An ancient map of Chattogram city shows the precise location of one of these coffee gardens – the area where the present-day Chittagong Medical College and War Cemetery stand was once home to the gardens.

The British, the colonial overlords back then, even established a company dedicated to coffee cultivation in 1843.

In 1840, Sconce, Chattogram's commissioner back then, established Bangladesh's first tea garden near Chittagong Club, importing tea seedlings from Assam. After three years of securing government approval, tea plantations began to flourish in Chattogram and its surroundings.

Just recently, I came into possession of the antique map, thanks to Sheikh Shawkat Kamal, an amateur history researcher.

The map, collected from the British Library in London, was drawn by British surveyor Edward Raymond Boileau. During 1835-41, he was engaged as an assistant to Henry Sidon in the land survey of Chattogram.

By going through the map, I found a coffee garden in the current Chittagong Medical College area. Intrigued by this discovery, I attempted to gather additional information about coffee cultivation in Chattogram from various other sources.

In the course of the investigation, I stumbled upon several letters in the archives of Fort William, containing fascinating details about coffee cultivation.

Among them was a proposal seeking approval for the establishment of "The Chittagong Joint Stock Coffee Company" in 1843, which proved to be a surprising yet significant finding.

The documents confirm that the proposal for the coffee company was dispatched in April, three months prior to the tea plantation proposal sent in August 1843.

Who brought coffee in Ctg?

The true origin of coffee in Chattogram, whether indigenous or introduced by European traders, remains uncertain.

However, there is a hint of natural coffee growth in Chattogram in a letter dated 1786, authored by Sir William Jones, a scholar of ancient India. He spent a few months in Chattogram with his wife for leisure, and the letter alludes to the existence of naturally growing coffee in the region.

In a letter to his friend, he wrote, "For the sake of my wife's health and my own, to spend a few weeks in this Indian Montpelier, where the hillocks are covered with pepper vines, and sparkle with the blossoms of the coffee tree; but the description of the place would fill a volume."

While it is unclear if the coffee and pepper were naturally grown or cultivated, evidence suggests the presence of coffee plants in Chattogram before the British arrival, possibly brought by Arab or Portuguese traders.

Additional proof of Chattogram traders engaging in coffee cultivation before the British initiated such activities in the region can be found in the proposal submitted by Sconce.

In the proposal submitted on 7 April 1843, commissioner Sconce referenced a merchant named Sheikh Obaidullah, who achieved favourable outcomes by collecting coffee samples from his garden and submitting them to the Agricultural Society of Kolkata for testing.

Notably, Sheikh Obaidullah was the father of Hamidullah Khan, the author of "Ahadisul Khawanin," a historical book detailing Chattogram in the 19th century.

Commissioner's coffee company

In his proposal, Sconce outlined plans to cultivate six acres of land in the region, anticipating a yield of a minimum of 1,920 coffee trees per acre. 

Despite acknowledging the initial lack of profitability for the first four years, Sconce emphasised the region's potential for high-quality coffee production and urged investors to recognise the long-term gains.

With an estimated net profit of Tk1,300 anticipated in the fifth year, Sconce proposed an initial capital of Tk6,000, divided into shares among 50 individuals, suggesting the commencement of work with half the investment.

Through this proposal, he aimed to encourage investment in Chattogram's coffee cultivation, anticipating support from interested stakeholders.

However, Sconce's proposal faced rejection when one of the company's senior executives, more inclined toward investing in tea gardens, opposed it.

Undeterred, Sconce proceeded with coffee cultivation through a private initiative, unfazed by the company's decision.

Later, a coffee plantation project was undertaken by the company as well. The garden was kept up nicely in the beginning. However, once Sconce was transferred, there was a shortage of manpower, which caused the project to stall.

Nevertheless, the consequences of Sconce's coffee cultivation were known two decades later.

Another commissioner takes interest

Upon his appointment as commissioner in 1862, Gordon Young took an interest in Chattogram's tea and coffee plantations. He sought insights from Bruce, a seasoned resident with involvement in Sconce's coffee plantation project. 

Bruce, in response, detailed the history and challenges of tea and coffee cultivation in Chattogram, highlighting Dr Chapman's initiation of coffee cultivation in 1832.

He also mentioned that the region's coffee, when sent to London, was well-received despite suboptimal packaging.

Commissioner Young compiled data on Chattogram's plantations in 1862 and forwarded it to the Bengal Government in Kolkata, with subsequent dispatch to England for clearance.

Demise of coffee in Ctg

Chattogram and Sylhet soon began to see an increase in the number of tea gardens. At the same time as successful experimental tea cultivation took place in Sylhet.

Initially, small-scale tea growing in Chattogram proceeded smoothly, but tensions escalated among villagers and traders, leading to conflicts and arson over land acquisition for tea plantations. 

Similar opposition arose against converting fertile rice cultivation areas into coffee plantations.

The coffee company also faced challenges including staff shortages and land acquisition issues, resulting in a decline in production until its eventual demise.

Unfortunately, Chattogram's coffee cultivation faded into obscurity, with the British Library in London holding the sole remnants of its existence through old maps and documentation.

https://www.tbsnews.net/features/curious-past-chattograms-coffee-cultivation-781682